Sunday, June 12, 2011

Kaua'i: the Unforgiving Island

I will sum up the passage that the guys had a few days ago from the big island to O'ahu, then from there to Kaua'i:

The first stretch there was no wind and it was a long motorboat ride. Once they reached the center of the Alenuihaha, things got choppy and the wind smacked them into action. They didn't eat much that first day, but Ala Wai  was around the corner in Honolulu, so they figured they'd stop and grab a bite with a friend. 

Calling the harbor master, they were told there's a wait list for even just a temporary transient slip. He was pretty much a jerk and told Jon and George to go anchor out in the middle of nowhere. Luckily, our marina back home had emailed me, still in Kona, information on our reciprocal slip and who to contact in Honolulu. Jon was able to call a much more friendly guy who directed them to a temporary spot for a few hours while they could take a breather. 

They asked a local guy on the dock if this was the spot they were looking for. He didn't acknowledge them. They asked again. Nothing; he didn't even turn around. Another couple overheard, however, and came over to help out. Not surprisingly, it seems like O'ahu is weary of tourists and travelers and would rather not help out much...

The guys met up with their buddy and had lunch. Soon, it was time to be on their way and cross the second channel over to Kaua'i. 

Hugging the lee of the island was choppy yet again, but once they got out, sails were reefed and on they cruised at 7 knots. 

That night, Jon went down below to cook. Two big crashing waves in succession resulted in him wearing the hot chicken and rice he cooked up, as well as decorating the entire galley and settee of the boat with it. George, who was at the helm, was soaking wet from the waves crashing over. The boys went without a solid dinner that night, but at least they had a story to tell!

George suddenly saw a row of blinding bright lights in front of the boat. It was coming on so fast and was so wide, there was no way to steer clear. Oddly, the lights zoomed up over the mast. It was a plane diving at them! For some reason, this plane circled and repeated two more times. This massive plane was coming in low, and the intense lights lit up the water underneath and around the boat. Then another plane came to repeat. Jon and George were never hailed on the radio or addressed by either plane. Were they messing with the guys? Were they legitimately checking them out? Who knows, but you could bet the guys were definitely wide awake now!

The next morning they arrived at Nawiliwili in a very strong wind, 25-30 knots out of the northeast. The trade winds were kicking. Heading into the designated slip is a bit intimidating, as the concrete dock and side column don't seem to get any softer in strong wind. Luckily, Jon steered Shenanigans in without any major issues. He had enough practice with the wind here while checking in at the loading dock, which took 3 times to keep the boat steady enough to tie up!

So the boys had a good time. Night passages are almost never fun, but when the end is so near, I guess it makes it a bit more manageable. 

The trade winds are supposed to calm down today and for the next week. Our neighbor discovered how tricky they could be, as they arrived last night after rounding the island from Hanalei, up north. The bow of their 40+ yacht made a sickening crunch against the concrete tie-up pillar as they took the turn into their spot a little wide. We were able to help them tie up on their next attempt. Not too much damage, but definitely not a fun way to end a long rough passage. 

We explored the nearby river with our dinghy, and couldn't believe the amount of green plant life that covers every square inch of this island. We also visited Larsen's beach, with its crystal clear water and golden sand. This island is definitely more rugged in regards to the sea state: the rough winds make for a rougher shore break. Then again, we have not yet visited the leeward side of the island, which must be calmer. 

Today, we're off to the northern side to meet up with some friends and snorkel Tunnels beach. That is, if the testy Hawaiian ocean will allow us to!

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