Well, I'm back in California. I left Jon, Matt and Sean last night to their own devices. I hope they can get along without a galley wench to cook and clean up! I'm sure they will be fine.
As we speak, they are back at Tunnels beach on the north side of Kauai, doing a bit more snorkeling before spending the next month or so aboard the same 35 x 12 foot living space. They have to leave Nawiliwili today, as the harbormaster made it quite clear yesterday during his rounds that he needs the slip we're renting for another boat. So their plan is to head up to Hanalei tonight, and spend some time there before the final push off into the big blue.
The upcoming passage home will be an interesting one for them. The normal location for the high pressure system this time of year is pretty far north, like around 40 N latitude. We were hoping it would be a bit lower, so that "riding the trade wind carousel" around it would result in less overall mileage and a quicker transit home. Well...it seems mother nature is not in a cooperative mood right now. The high is even further north than usual, and west. If the guys were to sail around it, they would have to sail west towards Japan, go north about 1200 miles, then sail south toward Point Conception. This would take at least a month.
So, they may "cheat" and cut under the high. This means beating somewhat into the swell, and into the wind. However, mother nature is throwing yet another curve ball. It seems that a secondary high pressure has developed between Hawaii and California. It has weakened the wind to only about 10 knots or so, which is definitely not optimal for sailing!
What will the guys end up doing? You'll have to keep an eye on this blog to find out!
We've added more pictures and a new video below. Enjoy!
Friday, June 24, 2011
Friday, June 17, 2011
The Adventures of Rent-A-Wreck
Kaua’i definitely has a couple friendly locals, but much
less so than the big island. We don’t feel quite as welcome as we did in Hilo
or in Kona. However, this is totally understandable; if there were nonstop
swarms of tourists invading my privacy, I would probably be holding back from
strangers I will never see again. One such character is the owner of the local
“rent-a-wreck.” Their motto: If you don’t need to be driving around in
something fancy, come rent a rust bucket for a fraction of the cost!
The owner looks like Vin Diesel, and is about as
intimidating at first. Yet as we talked about the terms of the rental, it
became apparent that he was a bit of a joker. As he pointed out at the black,
beat up mid-nineties sedan in the lot, he said “Well, she’s out of gas, so
bring her back empty. And ignore all the ‘check engine’ lights on the dash. And
the AC doesn’t work…you guys aren’t air conditioning people, are you?” We
laughed and asked what his hours of operation were, so we would know when to
return the car. His response was, “Whenever I get here. Don’t worry too much
about it.”
We later visited him to extend the rental, and he was
actually pretty happy to see us. It seems around here that you have to be a
return customer or a regular to get a smile and the shaka!
Well, we put that poor car to good use. Many beaches around
here can only be accessed via four-wheel drive roads. We didn’t let that little
detail stop us! I’m surprised that the car is still running, with minimal
clunks and quirky noises.
One such beach was the western end of the Na Pali coast,
called Polihale. It stretches for miles and miles, soft golden sand as far as
you can see. It ends abruptly at the steep, imposing cliffs of Na Pali, which
is an area I can best describe as a tropical version of the Big Sur coastline
in California. I can’t fully describe the beauty of this place, as words just
don’t do it justice. Please check out the pictures in the gallery, which shows
our hike from the northern end of Na Pali on the Kalalau trail. The humidity
was intense, the red mud thick and slick, and the mosquitoes ravenous, but I
will never forget how perfect and pristine this wild coastline was.
My favorite part was Hanakapi’ai beach, about two miles into
the hike. It was surrounded on all sides by steep black lava cliffs, covered
with greenery. The breaking 3-4 foot waves were completely translucent; you
could see the sand clearly below, and whoever was swimming around could be easily
observed as they were swallowed whole and spat out by the sea. Further up the
trail was Hanakapi’ai falls, another amazing spot. From there, the trail
continued another 9 miles or so, which was a tad bit more than what we were
willing to attempt that day.
It was pretty amusing to go see the new pirates movie the
next night, and fully recognize the Na Pali silhouette, trails, and same exact
plant life shown in 90% of the movie. Most of the locations shot for the film
were right in our backyard!
We are counting down the days until we return home. I will
be flying back to California on the 23rd, and Jon will depart on his
sail back to the mainland on the 24th or 25th. Shenanigans’
crew will include our buddy Matt, who I mentioned in an earlier post, and Sean,
who has never sailed before but is really interested in such a grand adventure.
So far it looks like the Pacific high pressure system is up near 38 N latitude,
so they will definitely have some northing to do. Nonetheless, Shenanigans will
get home safely and our little journey will be over for now. Where we will go
after all this is still up in the air!
Sunday, June 12, 2011
Kaua'i: the Unforgiving Island
I will sum up the passage that the guys had a few days ago from the big island to O'ahu, then from there to Kaua'i:
The first stretch there was no wind and it was a long motorboat ride. Once they reached the center of the Alenuihaha, things got choppy and the wind smacked them into action. They didn't eat much that first day, but Ala Wai was around the corner in Honolulu, so they figured they'd stop and grab a bite with a friend.
Calling the harbor master, they were told there's a wait list for even just a temporary transient slip. He was pretty much a jerk and told Jon and George to go anchor out in the middle of nowhere. Luckily, our marina back home had emailed me, still in Kona, information on our reciprocal slip and who to contact in Honolulu. Jon was able to call a much more friendly guy who directed them to a temporary spot for a few hours while they could take a breather.
They asked a local guy on the dock if this was the spot they were looking for. He didn't acknowledge them. They asked again. Nothing; he didn't even turn around. Another couple overheard, however, and came over to help out. Not surprisingly, it seems like O'ahu is weary of tourists and travelers and would rather not help out much...
The guys met up with their buddy and had lunch. Soon, it was time to be on their way and cross the second channel over to Kaua'i.
Hugging the lee of the island was choppy yet again, but once they got out, sails were reefed and on they cruised at 7 knots.
That night, Jon went down below to cook. Two big crashing waves in succession resulted in him wearing the hot chicken and rice he cooked up, as well as decorating the entire galley and settee of the boat with it. George, who was at the helm, was soaking wet from the waves crashing over. The boys went without a solid dinner that night, but at least they had a story to tell!
George suddenly saw a row of blinding bright lights in front of the boat. It was coming on so fast and was so wide, there was no way to steer clear. Oddly, the lights zoomed up over the mast. It was a plane diving at them! For some reason, this plane circled and repeated two more times. This massive plane was coming in low, and the intense lights lit up the water underneath and around the boat. Then another plane came to repeat. Jon and George were never hailed on the radio or addressed by either plane. Were they messing with the guys? Were they legitimately checking them out? Who knows, but you could bet the guys were definitely wide awake now!
The next morning they arrived at Nawiliwili in a very strong wind, 25-30 knots out of the northeast. The trade winds were kicking. Heading into the designated slip is a bit intimidating, as the concrete dock and side column don't seem to get any softer in strong wind. Luckily, Jon steered Shenanigans in without any major issues. He had enough practice with the wind here while checking in at the loading dock, which took 3 times to keep the boat steady enough to tie up!
So the boys had a good time. Night passages are almost never fun, but when the end is so near, I guess it makes it a bit more manageable.
The trade winds are supposed to calm down today and for the next week. Our neighbor discovered how tricky they could be, as they arrived last night after rounding the island from Hanalei, up north. The bow of their 40+ yacht made a sickening crunch against the concrete tie-up pillar as they took the turn into their spot a little wide. We were able to help them tie up on their next attempt. Not too much damage, but definitely not a fun way to end a long rough passage.
We explored the nearby river with our dinghy, and couldn't believe the amount of green plant life that covers every square inch of this island. We also visited Larsen's beach, with its crystal clear water and golden sand. This island is definitely more rugged in regards to the sea state: the rough winds make for a rougher shore break. Then again, we have not yet visited the leeward side of the island, which must be calmer.
Today, we're off to the northern side to meet up with some friends and snorkel Tunnels beach. That is, if the testy Hawaiian ocean will allow us to!
The first stretch there was no wind and it was a long motorboat ride. Once they reached the center of the Alenuihaha, things got choppy and the wind smacked them into action. They didn't eat much that first day, but Ala Wai was around the corner in Honolulu, so they figured they'd stop and grab a bite with a friend.
Calling the harbor master, they were told there's a wait list for even just a temporary transient slip. He was pretty much a jerk and told Jon and George to go anchor out in the middle of nowhere. Luckily, our marina back home had emailed me, still in Kona, information on our reciprocal slip and who to contact in Honolulu. Jon was able to call a much more friendly guy who directed them to a temporary spot for a few hours while they could take a breather.
They asked a local guy on the dock if this was the spot they were looking for. He didn't acknowledge them. They asked again. Nothing; he didn't even turn around. Another couple overheard, however, and came over to help out. Not surprisingly, it seems like O'ahu is weary of tourists and travelers and would rather not help out much...
The guys met up with their buddy and had lunch. Soon, it was time to be on their way and cross the second channel over to Kaua'i.
Hugging the lee of the island was choppy yet again, but once they got out, sails were reefed and on they cruised at 7 knots.
That night, Jon went down below to cook. Two big crashing waves in succession resulted in him wearing the hot chicken and rice he cooked up, as well as decorating the entire galley and settee of the boat with it. George, who was at the helm, was soaking wet from the waves crashing over. The boys went without a solid dinner that night, but at least they had a story to tell!
George suddenly saw a row of blinding bright lights in front of the boat. It was coming on so fast and was so wide, there was no way to steer clear. Oddly, the lights zoomed up over the mast. It was a plane diving at them! For some reason, this plane circled and repeated two more times. This massive plane was coming in low, and the intense lights lit up the water underneath and around the boat. Then another plane came to repeat. Jon and George were never hailed on the radio or addressed by either plane. Were they messing with the guys? Were they legitimately checking them out? Who knows, but you could bet the guys were definitely wide awake now!
The next morning they arrived at Nawiliwili in a very strong wind, 25-30 knots out of the northeast. The trade winds were kicking. Heading into the designated slip is a bit intimidating, as the concrete dock and side column don't seem to get any softer in strong wind. Luckily, Jon steered Shenanigans in without any major issues. He had enough practice with the wind here while checking in at the loading dock, which took 3 times to keep the boat steady enough to tie up!
So the boys had a good time. Night passages are almost never fun, but when the end is so near, I guess it makes it a bit more manageable.
The trade winds are supposed to calm down today and for the next week. Our neighbor discovered how tricky they could be, as they arrived last night after rounding the island from Hanalei, up north. The bow of their 40+ yacht made a sickening crunch against the concrete tie-up pillar as they took the turn into their spot a little wide. We were able to help them tie up on their next attempt. Not too much damage, but definitely not a fun way to end a long rough passage.
We explored the nearby river with our dinghy, and couldn't believe the amount of green plant life that covers every square inch of this island. We also visited Larsen's beach, with its crystal clear water and golden sand. This island is definitely more rugged in regards to the sea state: the rough winds make for a rougher shore break. Then again, we have not yet visited the leeward side of the island, which must be calmer.
Today, we're off to the northern side to meet up with some friends and snorkel Tunnels beach. That is, if the testy Hawaiian ocean will allow us to!
Friday, June 10, 2011
Nawiliwili, Kaua'i
We are safely tied up in Nawiliwili harbor on the southeast side of Kaua'i. What a glorious backdrop: huge, almost vertical green mountains stand guard along the south end of the harbor. Squalls are common, the trade winds are pretty lively right now, and we are definitely glad the side of the concrete dock has a row of tires for Shenanigans to lay up against.
Though I was not sailing along with the guys, I still had a phenomenal marine experience that I want to share. I will let Jon fill you in on their jump to Kaua'i from O'ahu, plus their experiences in Honolulu.
For the last couple days, while waiting for George and Jon to sail from the big island to Kaua'i, I was adopted by a local family in Kona: the Chings. Never before have I met a family so willing to give and give, but never take.
The father of the household, Lorin, is heavy into the world of outrigger canoe paddling. He invited me out for a paddle in his two-man canoe out of Keauhou. I thought it sounded like a lot of fun, so out we went, then up the coast toward a former beach we snorkeled, Kehalu'u. The swells weren't too gnarly, so I agreed to try surfing for the first time.
The canoe is so lightweight and streamlined, we zoomed past the other people out there on boards. Instead of fighting for waves, we took just about every good one. It was unreal to be riding a warm, perfectly translucent wave, and still be able to clearly see all the coral and colorful fish down below us. People on the black sand beach cheered us on. I'm glad we managed to keep from flipping!
After a while the swells started to die down, so we started to paddle back to the harbor. On the way, we were approached by a kid on a one-man canoe. He asked if we knew "what is that?" as he pointed out toward the open ocean. We didn't see what he was talking about. He said "It's like a ball with flippers. It's splashing around out there, kinda weird."
The kid looked a little scared, and didn't want to go back out. I suggested that maybe a turtle was tangled in fishing gear? Lorin said we should check it out. So off we went.
There was definitely a big ball with fins. First we saw a broad, barrel-shaped black back surfacing with a slight dorsal fin, and fins that came out about 5 feet on either side. What the heck? Two big sharks feeding on something?
We paddled closer and finally got a clear view. Two massive manta rays, at least 9 feet from wingtip to wingtip, were feeding on the plankton on the surface. Huge mouths agape, they peacefully glided along while "flying" through the clear water. I have never seen anything so serene or beautiful within arms reach.
We cruised alongside the rays almost the entire way to the harbor. At one point, the largest manta did a nosedive, then sharply upturned and jumped clear of the surface, about 10 feet from the canoe. How quickly a 20 foot canoe can feel tiny! Afterwards, the ray rolled on its side to look up at us, as if to say "how did you like that?"
Eventually they left us, as we approached the harbor. I will never forget this experience, and one of the greatest days of my life. I wish I could put into words how thankful I am to have met my Hawaiian family and share in a sliver of their lives. The random acts of kindness and friendship that the big island extended our way (everything from offering rides into town, a local fisherman gifting 10 pounds of delicious wahoo (ono) for no reason, or even a family friend stealthily paying our hefty restaurant bill from under us "just because") makes the idea of going home next to impossible.
Sunshine, good food and a warm sandy beach make happy people. Happy people share the love. It's as simple as that.
Maybe we'll permanently become one of those happy, love sharing people? Hmmmmm...
Though I was not sailing along with the guys, I still had a phenomenal marine experience that I want to share. I will let Jon fill you in on their jump to Kaua'i from O'ahu, plus their experiences in Honolulu.
For the last couple days, while waiting for George and Jon to sail from the big island to Kaua'i, I was adopted by a local family in Kona: the Chings. Never before have I met a family so willing to give and give, but never take.
The father of the household, Lorin, is heavy into the world of outrigger canoe paddling. He invited me out for a paddle in his two-man canoe out of Keauhou. I thought it sounded like a lot of fun, so out we went, then up the coast toward a former beach we snorkeled, Kehalu'u. The swells weren't too gnarly, so I agreed to try surfing for the first time.
The canoe is so lightweight and streamlined, we zoomed past the other people out there on boards. Instead of fighting for waves, we took just about every good one. It was unreal to be riding a warm, perfectly translucent wave, and still be able to clearly see all the coral and colorful fish down below us. People on the black sand beach cheered us on. I'm glad we managed to keep from flipping!
After a while the swells started to die down, so we started to paddle back to the harbor. On the way, we were approached by a kid on a one-man canoe. He asked if we knew "what is that?" as he pointed out toward the open ocean. We didn't see what he was talking about. He said "It's like a ball with flippers. It's splashing around out there, kinda weird."
The kid looked a little scared, and didn't want to go back out. I suggested that maybe a turtle was tangled in fishing gear? Lorin said we should check it out. So off we went.
There was definitely a big ball with fins. First we saw a broad, barrel-shaped black back surfacing with a slight dorsal fin, and fins that came out about 5 feet on either side. What the heck? Two big sharks feeding on something?
We paddled closer and finally got a clear view. Two massive manta rays, at least 9 feet from wingtip to wingtip, were feeding on the plankton on the surface. Huge mouths agape, they peacefully glided along while "flying" through the clear water. I have never seen anything so serene or beautiful within arms reach.
We cruised alongside the rays almost the entire way to the harbor. At one point, the largest manta did a nosedive, then sharply upturned and jumped clear of the surface, about 10 feet from the canoe. How quickly a 20 foot canoe can feel tiny! Afterwards, the ray rolled on its side to look up at us, as if to say "how did you like that?"
Eventually they left us, as we approached the harbor. I will never forget this experience, and one of the greatest days of my life. I wish I could put into words how thankful I am to have met my Hawaiian family and share in a sliver of their lives. The random acts of kindness and friendship that the big island extended our way (everything from offering rides into town, a local fisherman gifting 10 pounds of delicious wahoo (ono) for no reason, or even a family friend stealthily paying our hefty restaurant bill from under us "just because") makes the idea of going home next to impossible.
Sunshine, good food and a warm sandy beach make happy people. Happy people share the love. It's as simple as that.
Maybe we'll permanently become one of those happy, love sharing people? Hmmmmm...
Wednesday, June 8, 2011
On the Way
All is well. The wind picked up and we have been sailing for the past 5 hours or so, no more motoring. We are making good time.
Tuesday, June 7, 2011
Taking the Easy Way Out
Ladies and gentlemen, I have officially chickened out!
The morning that we left to make the actual crossing of the Alenuihaha, we had some motor problems (starter solenoid was going out, motor was uncooperative!) Luckily, my handyman father was awake at home 6 hours away, and was able to help Jon out a bit with diagnosing the problem over the phone. The repair would require a port that actually had resources nearby, instead of the relative remoteness of Manele Bay on Lana'i. Nonetheless, we decided to venture on and cross the channel.
Once beyond the protection of the northernmost part of the big island, the swell started to pick up and get pretty choppy. I was uneasy, queasy, and had the motor issue in the back of my mind. I voiced my doubts, and admitted that I really didn't feel up to this crossing. Jon acquiesced, and back to Honokohau we went.
After the issue with the starter was fixed (thanks to our friend Peter for the ride to the repair shop, and the excellent Thai food!) we needed to look for crew. A friend of ours, George, who is also visiting from the mainland (even though at one time he was a long time local here, for at least seven years) has volunteered.
So what about the "Dani" part of "Shenanigans with Jon & Dani"? I no longer feel up to making any transits...I'm a bit weary of the stress and not feeling very safe. Exciting at first, but not so much anymore. It's funny that crossing an entire ocean without freaking out was possible, but once we start sailing the Hawaiian islands, I'm over it.
Well, it's a good thing that we did this practice run first, before starting our huge south pacific trip to New Zealand! That would be quite unfortunate to discover this weariness of cruising far from home, compared to the relative closeness of Hawaii to home. Will I ever feel up to long term sailing again? Hm, I'm not sure...
So as we speak, Jon and George are making the 231 mile sail to Nawiliwili, Kaua'i. They may stop by Ala Wai marina on O'ahu for a bit, to say hi to a few more friends. I'll be flying into Lihue on Kaua'i Thursday morning.
Don't worry! Blog updates from the actual sailors living in the action and adventure shall continue. Dani, however, shall be bowing out of this dance for now.
What about eventually getting Shenanigans home to California? Yet another friend, Matt, will be up to the challenge. He does a lot of racing, has a ton of experience on the water, and leapt at the offer to bring the boat home with Jon. He'll be flying out to Kaua'i on the 20th or so, and may tour the island for a few days with us, before I fly home and they both begin the great transit back. Who knows, there may even be another person who wants to help sail the boat back as a third crew member?
Crossing the pacific once is quite enough for me!
The morning that we left to make the actual crossing of the Alenuihaha, we had some motor problems (starter solenoid was going out, motor was uncooperative!) Luckily, my handyman father was awake at home 6 hours away, and was able to help Jon out a bit with diagnosing the problem over the phone. The repair would require a port that actually had resources nearby, instead of the relative remoteness of Manele Bay on Lana'i. Nonetheless, we decided to venture on and cross the channel.
Once beyond the protection of the northernmost part of the big island, the swell started to pick up and get pretty choppy. I was uneasy, queasy, and had the motor issue in the back of my mind. I voiced my doubts, and admitted that I really didn't feel up to this crossing. Jon acquiesced, and back to Honokohau we went.
After the issue with the starter was fixed (thanks to our friend Peter for the ride to the repair shop, and the excellent Thai food!) we needed to look for crew. A friend of ours, George, who is also visiting from the mainland (even though at one time he was a long time local here, for at least seven years) has volunteered.
So what about the "Dani" part of "Shenanigans with Jon & Dani"? I no longer feel up to making any transits...I'm a bit weary of the stress and not feeling very safe. Exciting at first, but not so much anymore. It's funny that crossing an entire ocean without freaking out was possible, but once we start sailing the Hawaiian islands, I'm over it.
Well, it's a good thing that we did this practice run first, before starting our huge south pacific trip to New Zealand! That would be quite unfortunate to discover this weariness of cruising far from home, compared to the relative closeness of Hawaii to home. Will I ever feel up to long term sailing again? Hm, I'm not sure...
So as we speak, Jon and George are making the 231 mile sail to Nawiliwili, Kaua'i. They may stop by Ala Wai marina on O'ahu for a bit, to say hi to a few more friends. I'll be flying into Lihue on Kaua'i Thursday morning.
Don't worry! Blog updates from the actual sailors living in the action and adventure shall continue. Dani, however, shall be bowing out of this dance for now.
What about eventually getting Shenanigans home to California? Yet another friend, Matt, will be up to the challenge. He does a lot of racing, has a ton of experience on the water, and leapt at the offer to bring the boat home with Jon. He'll be flying out to Kaua'i on the 20th or so, and may tour the island for a few days with us, before I fly home and they both begin the great transit back. Who knows, there may even be another person who wants to help sail the boat back as a third crew member?
Crossing the pacific once is quite enough for me!
Saturday, June 4, 2011
Kawaihae and Preparing to Cross the Alenuihaha
6-4
Yesterday we made the relatively mellow transit from Honokohau harbor northward to Kawaihae "harbor." This area is more like a calm patch of water behind some rocks, without actual slips to tie into. However, it's surprisingly calm and rather peaceful, compared to the hustle and bustle of the tourist attractions in Honokohau. No showers or facilities for boaters around, but the few restaurants here are pretty darn good. I was treated to a fantastic steak, shrimp, and cheesecake dinner last night that I won't soon forget!
On the transit up here, we brought a few local friends who wanted to experience sailing for the first time. Unfortunately, one person instead was treated to experiencing seasickness for the first time! Luckily, we were able to drop her off in the Kukio beach / Kua bay area along the way, and she got a ride home. This area was gorgeous with white sand beaches and electric blue water, yet also had lava rocks and coral in about 10 feet of water. It took some finesse to keep Shenanigans steady while getting situated in the dinghy. All in all, everything worked out and we continued to Kawaihae.
The wind was uncharacteristically flukey, so we had to do some motoring after the spinnaker refused to stay full. Yet we were able to arrive before nightfall and anchor snugly.
The other boaters here are very friendly and helpful. Advice on the best place to anchor, where to leave our dinghy when going to shore, and how to deal with the developing thunderstorms were all topics discussed freely. We even met a guy originally from Ventura, which shows it really is a small world.
One of our buddies along for the trip informed us that this area used to hold human sacrifices at the local heiau (house of worship) and the remains were fed to the many, many sharks here. She said it's not uncommon to see tiger or hammerhead around here...and the local charter captain says the blacktips breed their young in the shallows. So it seems I won't be scrubbing the boat bottom until our next stop in Lana'i, unless I bring my speargun down with me!!
We leave tonight around midnight to cross the Alenuihaha. The forecast is for a tame 3-5 foot swell with 17-19 knots from the east, which is exactly what I was hoping for.
We decided that we are going to skip Molokini and go straight to Lana'i. Apparently tour boats are very aggressive to outside boaters, plus the winds pick up mid-day and make for rough snorkeling. Lana'i and Moloka'i will offer plenty of gorgeous snorkel opportunities for us, so no sweat.
Off to Manele bay!
By the way, you know you've lived in Hawai'i for awhile when it's 79 degrees and you're thinking about grabbing a sweater...
Yesterday we made the relatively mellow transit from Honokohau harbor northward to Kawaihae "harbor." This area is more like a calm patch of water behind some rocks, without actual slips to tie into. However, it's surprisingly calm and rather peaceful, compared to the hustle and bustle of the tourist attractions in Honokohau. No showers or facilities for boaters around, but the few restaurants here are pretty darn good. I was treated to a fantastic steak, shrimp, and cheesecake dinner last night that I won't soon forget!
On the transit up here, we brought a few local friends who wanted to experience sailing for the first time. Unfortunately, one person instead was treated to experiencing seasickness for the first time! Luckily, we were able to drop her off in the Kukio beach / Kua bay area along the way, and she got a ride home. This area was gorgeous with white sand beaches and electric blue water, yet also had lava rocks and coral in about 10 feet of water. It took some finesse to keep Shenanigans steady while getting situated in the dinghy. All in all, everything worked out and we continued to Kawaihae.
The wind was uncharacteristically flukey, so we had to do some motoring after the spinnaker refused to stay full. Yet we were able to arrive before nightfall and anchor snugly.
The other boaters here are very friendly and helpful. Advice on the best place to anchor, where to leave our dinghy when going to shore, and how to deal with the developing thunderstorms were all topics discussed freely. We even met a guy originally from Ventura, which shows it really is a small world.
One of our buddies along for the trip informed us that this area used to hold human sacrifices at the local heiau (house of worship) and the remains were fed to the many, many sharks here. She said it's not uncommon to see tiger or hammerhead around here...and the local charter captain says the blacktips breed their young in the shallows. So it seems I won't be scrubbing the boat bottom until our next stop in Lana'i, unless I bring my speargun down with me!!
We leave tonight around midnight to cross the Alenuihaha. The forecast is for a tame 3-5 foot swell with 17-19 knots from the east, which is exactly what I was hoping for.
We decided that we are going to skip Molokini and go straight to Lana'i. Apparently tour boats are very aggressive to outside boaters, plus the winds pick up mid-day and make for rough snorkeling. Lana'i and Moloka'i will offer plenty of gorgeous snorkel opportunities for us, so no sweat.
Off to Manele bay!
By the way, you know you've lived in Hawai'i for awhile when it's 79 degrees and you're thinking about grabbing a sweater...
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)